Good morning. Eric Kimfor The Times this week, and delivered a terrific recipe with the essay, for (above). That could be part of your meal tonight, maybe alongside some .
As good as that recipe is, though, my main takeaway from Eric’s story came from one of the chefs he interviewed, Jim Burke, of Wm. Mulherin’s Sons in Philadelphia, who doesn’t ever use black pepper in his salad dressing. “Pepper is an extraordinarily assertive flavor,” Burke told Eric. “It doesn’t have a place in everything, especially with delicate leaves.”
I laughed at that. It reminded me of a brushback the chef Ned Baldwin threw at Jeff Glor, a correspondent for “CBS This Morning,”about his book “ ” in 2020. Baldwin was preparing a black sea bass for the camera, dressing it with salt, lemon and herbs. “And pepper too,” Glor said. Baldwin cut him off. “No pepper,” he said. “Don’t believe in pepper.”
It’s a valuable lesson these chefs offer. Consider it in your cooking moving forward. I’ve been largely off pepper except as what they call a finishing spice for months now, and it’s been revelatory.
(On the other hand, theseare bonkers delicious, as is this .)
What else to cook this week? I’m thinking; ; ; and , pan-fried cod sliders on Hawaiian rolls.
I’m also thinking a lot about Thanksgivingand . Maybe a this year, or some ? Maybe , a , a ? Practice makes perfect!
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Now, it’s a far cry from marjoram and almond oil, but I’d like to put you onto Gary Shteyngart’s novel “.” Molly Young calls it , and who am I to argue? It’s good fun.
Women have been admitted to the formerly all-male cowboy institution Deep Springs College in rural California and, as, that doesn’t mean it’s changing.
Here’s a new poem by Tracy K. Smith in The New York Times Magazine, “.”
Finally, I’ll leave you with a soundtrack for the week, from the infinite playlists of NTS Radio: “.” Easy skanking! Listen loud, cook a lot and I’ll be back on Wednesday.